Barrio de las letras.
Good. You have decided to come to Madrid. My base, because this is where I live. Do you come to Madrid to get to know the city? Well, you have a problem: you will not want to leave, because here you have everything, and when I say everything is everything. Go ahead!
The Barrio de las Letras in Madrid is to enter the Spanish Golden Age, walk where Cervantes, Lope de Vega and many writers and artists lived and lived. Design stores merge with neighborhood stores, small, convents, churches, bars, bullfighting taverns, restaurants, breweries, museums, and pedestrian streets or restricted access to vehicles.
It is very close to the Puerta del Sol, in the center of the city. You just have to take Carretas street and when you reach the first square, on the left. By subway you can take line 1 and the most central stop of the Barrio de las Letras is the Antón Martín Station.
This area is known by this name for being where some of the most important writers of Spanish literature resided in the seventeenth century. Cervantes, Lope de Vega, Quevedo, Tirso de Molina or Góngora, among others. In this place came the comedy pens, predecessors of the current theaters, such as the Prince of Pacheca or the Cross. As a reference we can take Huertas Street is its main artery where tapas bars and party venues are located and where, practically, young people in their thirties meet to have drinks with friends. Also the Plaza de Santa Ana, with its large terraces, is another of the great attractions for tourists in the area.
the situation of the neighborhood is unbeatable to know the culture of Madrid, since it houses the CaixaForum and in its vicinity are the National Prado Museum and the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum, as well as monumental areas such as the Puerta del Sol or the Plaza Mayor.
We will start our tour starting from a nerve point and known by anyone who has ever come to Madrid. The Plaza de Santa Ana. We will be located in the center, leaving to the left the great building of the hotel and to the right the Spanish Theater, to locate us.
To our left we have, as I said before, a famous building: the hotel Reina Victoria (currently hotel ME), known in the village and court as the hotel of the bullfighters . In this place there was a placio, built in 1810, and where the Countess of Montijo lived, where there were sumptuous and frequent parties at that time. Well, this palace was demolished and in its place was built, in 1919, the current building that had many problems during its construction phase due to the impediments that the City Council put on the basis of the height of the building.
The building, built by the architect Jesús Carrasco y Encina, was made with the most modern materials of his time, leaving large spans for the use he intended to dedicate: a commercial building. Iron and reinforced concrete structures were used, it is very inspired by Antonio Palacios' designs for other similar premises. The first two floors were dedicated to commercial warehouses, of incipient use in the main European cities, and the last one to a hotel. And indeed, the famous ones stayed here warehouses Simeón
For many years now, this hotel has been identified with the world of bullfighting, bullfighters and their wanderings, since many right-handed people used to lodge in it. For example, it is said that Manolete always asked for room 406. Many bullfighters were staying and preparing at the hotel before going to the square, such as El Viti, Antoñete or Joselito. It is also said that in this hotel Luis Miguel Dominguín and Ava Gardner lived a passionate, and much mentioned romance.
Subsequently, the Tryp chain bought it and gave its hotel its name: Reina Victoria. It was the time of the Madrid Movement and many Spanish rock groups, when they came to the capital, they stayed here, like Loquillo and the Troglodytes, Luz Casal and even Pablo Milanes. The bar, with bullfighter symbols, appeared in Almodovar's movie 'Talk to her'.
It is currently the ME hotel. Highlights: The cafeteria, ME Lounge, a restaurant with international cuisine and, above all, an essential place to climb: the terrace of the ME Madrid, The Roof , open in winter and summer, offering an atmosphere relaxed with spectacular views of the city.
Now we will turn our head to the right, just in front of the aforementioned hotel and across the square. We see the Spanish Theater .
It is necessary to go back before even 1582, when the Prince's Corral is bought, in this same place. Comedy pens in Madrid emerged in the Golden Age as a theatrical setting where Spanish dramaturgy was represented at this time. They functioned between the second half of the 16th century and the first quarter of the 18th century, then some disappeared and others were converted into theaters. At the end of the 16th century there were six open pens in Madrid, among which the following stand out: the comedy corral of Pacheca, that of La Cruz and the Prince, the latter was the predecessor of the Royal Theater.
As we Spaniards are like that, even between nearby corralas there were piques and rant and, in this way, in the 18th century the Prince's Theater had its own group of followers, the Chorizos, and the Teatro de la Cruz, very close to the first He had his own: the Poles, always rivaling each other.
Anyway, that in 1802 the Prince's Theater goes and catches fire, and taking advantage of the occasion and that Juan de Villanueva was an excellent and fashionable architect at that time in the town and court, it was built under its address, the new Spanish Theater, which opens its doors in 1850.
Currently alternating theatrical performances with other activities. You can also visit inside, in groups and by appointment, (picking up tickets at the box office one week in advance), from Tuesday to Friday, at 12 noon for 2 euros. The visitor will know the history and evolution of the Spanish Theater during its more than 400 years of existence, from the time it was born (as a comedy corral), through the different political and artistic stages, to becoming the Theater that it is today. You can also visit the scenic box and they will explain the operation and work of the people who work there.
Just behind us is a large brewery, the Santa Ana brewery, with several bars and some snacks. And a little below, the German brewery , opened since 1904, with a decoration that has remained virtually unchanged to this day and where illustrious people like Hemingway have left their mark, and said by himself: a Good place to have beers and coffee. ”
From the front and on the left, walking very little, we find another old tavern. The Casa del Abuelo , founded in 1906. A small place with high tables, no place to sit. On the walls some old, famous photos and the typical seltz machine. Famous for its garlic and grilled shrimp.
We are now going to Huertas Street which, as we are positioned, is on the right. And before entering the street, in the same corner, a church. The church of San Sebastian .
This church, between baptisms, marriages, deaths of illustrious characters, gathers the largest cast of names known and registered here, as it is reflected at the entrance of the same in three marble plates. Antonio Sillero was the architect who, in 1954, started the works. It was one of the two churches in Madrid that was granted the "right of asylum"; that is, anyone fleeing from justice could take refuge in them.
Curious the burials that were made in this church, as in many others. If you were noble and / or had money, they were carried out inside the church, if not, in the garden next to the temple. Today that garden, where the remains of Lope de Vega and Ramón de la Cruz rest, it is true that it is not known where exactly where and if they have not happened at some time to some common grave, it is a florist. You will see it, it is in the same corner, with pottery and pottery hanging from a tree. The land, with entrance through the streets of San Sebastián and Las Huertas, was and known as "The Garden of Comedians." In it they received burial, among many others, Félix Lópe de Vega and Carpio, Buenaventura Rodríguez Tizón (Ventura Rodríguez), Juan Antonio de Villanueva y de Montes (Juan de Villanueva) and María Ignacia Ibáñez. The latter died prematurely and it is said that José Cadalso lost so much winds for her that he tried to unearth her by not being able to bear her loss.
Little is left before in this church. During the Spanish civil war it was assaulted by the republican troops and their altars and altarpieces were burned, and almost at the end of the war, a bomb from the opposite side falls right in the middle of it. Today we can distinguish, after the reconstruction in 1959, two clearly defined parts: the old one, with the Chapels of Bethlehem, the Sacred Heart and that of the Virgin of Mercy, and the modern one, a set of ochavada plant, with headboard and a large central dome, with lanterns that widely supply light and the chorus at the foot.
It has two facades: that of Atocha Street, of great simplicity, with a semicircular arch that gives way to the atrium and that of San Sebastián Street, made with part of the old cover of Atocha Street, by Pedro de Rivera , churrigueresque style, but modified to adapt to the new neoclassical style, with Ionic columns that support the pediment. Inside, a central nave, a large dome held by scallops and where the four evangelists are represented. The altar is square and the arrangement of the benches is assembly, around the altar.
We return by our steps and we begin to cross the Huertas street, named for the cultivation lands that initially existed in this area. The first street on the right takes us to the Royal Academy of History. Since 1738 the Royal Academy of History has pursued a main objective:
purify and clean the History of Spain from the fables that dazzle her and
Illustrate it from news that seems most helpful.
The nineteenth century is the period in which Archeology acquires its autonomy in Spain as
historical science The romantic movement influenced it. Until then, the antiquities arrived by any form to the Crown and belonging to it were surrounded by the most pilgrim fables and myths related to their origin.
That is why the Royal Academy of History put a lot of effort since
Beginning of your activities in collecting first-hand news of these
antiquities and also try to take the necessary measures by the
crown for protection and conservation.
Throughout this century the Royal Academy of History has been decisive
in several fundamental aspects, in the legislative, in the institutional,
in that of protection and conservation and in that of research, as we will have
occasion to check along these pages
Going back and at that height of Huertas Street we find a plaque in homage to Miguel de Cervantes.
The building in which it is located is the rear facade of the Convent of the Trinitarian.
As I said before, here lived renowned writers and among them there were disagreements, piques and disagreements: Cervantes and Lope de Vega were very enemy neighbors, openly insulting satirical verses were dedicated. They had opposite personalities and different literary visions, Lope was the poet of the town, very popular among women and enjoyed great success in his theatrical performances. On the other hand, Cervantes followed the classical norms and did not have a great popular recognition in life, moreover, he lived with great narrownesses. With Quevedo and Gongora practically the same thing happened.
Cervantes is buried in this convent. His remains rest in a small monument inside the temple.This convent is known by its former name Convent of the Barefoot Trinitarians of San Ildefonso,built in 1609. In 1673 it was intended to expand
the convent demolishing the houses where the nuns lived and the chapel in which Cervantes was buried, since then his remains have been lost
and until recently very well. It was from the documents located by the historian Francisco Marín Perellón that it was learned that at some point they were transferred to the crypt,
under the current temple, where the bones of several bodies were found and that thanks to the new technologies introduced in the appraisal it could be verified with total security
that the bones found are those of the writer. His nuns paid the ransom of Cervantes when he was a prisoner in Algiers.
In this convent they professed a natural daughter of Cervantes and Sr. Marcela de San Felix, daughter of Lope de Vega and illustrious poet.
Below, two classics: La Fídula y El Hecho. The first, a pub with live concerts by author and pioneer of the neighborhood's music bars and the second a classic cocktail bar, both open for many years and for something will be.
We continue down and turn left, in the Plaza de Jesus. Here, in front of the church of Jesús de Medinacelli we will find one of the most traditional bars in Madrid: La Dolores . This centennial tavern maintains its traditional and striking facade of tiles and its marble counter in which the reeds and good tapas are thrown with much art. Its main specialty is anchovies and fleas, which offers a very varied assortment: of cabrales cheese with anchovy, anchovies with tomatoes, banderillas, etc. A large bar presides over the place, which also has walls full of beer mugs, old posters and a corner at the bottom with a few tables. One of the things that most characterizes this tavern is its facade with trencadís tiles, a type of ornamental application of the mosaic from ceramic fragments and joined with mortar.
Very close and on the same street we have the Los Gatos meson. As a fugitive from an Almodovar movie, you will hallucinate with the decoration
from this place: bottles, beer mugs, scales, a bull's head, hoods, siphons, an altar boy, a fuel pump, and Carlos III looking out onto a balcony ... a
Authentic museum, go! It is not expensive and can be ordered from a wide assortment of toasts.
Not far from here we will find the House Museum of Lope de Vega. At number 11 of Cervantes street. Pedro Muguruza restored this house, where Lope de Vega lived, after several sales and transactions of it. In 1935, when three hundred years had passed since the death of Lope de Vega, the building was declared a monument and opened as a museum.
Other museums, such as the Prado Museum, Santa Cruz Museum, the National Library, as well as collectors and individuals transferred works of art, furniture, equipment and bibliographic editions to complete the house.
Here stands what was the house of Lope de Vega the last 25 years of his life. We can see the garden, study, dining room, oratory, the bedrooms and the guest room.
You can visit by appointment.
I know that many things remain in the tent. I leave the post open and I will complete it at another time, but I think it gives us a vision
of what we can find in this neighborhood and the possibility of enjoying it with art, literature and good beers. A greeting.
Walking through this neighborhood can take you to a place where you can enjoy good live music while you drink a cane without ruining it. Barrio de las letras. Plaza de Santa Ana
Santa Ana Square.
Huertas Street.
Cafes with live music
Café Central
La Fídula
Cardomo
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